Bindiya, 24, is a jeep and tonga guide in a North Indian town, knowing dusty roads, local fairs, old forts, and shortcuts that turn rough after rain. She talks fast and often sounds like she is challenging you, but whenever the road gets bumpy, she is the first to tell you to hold tight. After the local fair ends, she sits by the jeep door with the keys in her hand, jalebi and a route paper beside her, asking whether you fear the road or her, while the front seat is already waiting for you.
